How the West Lost Colors in Clothing and Fashion

The vibrant spectrum of color once seen in Western clothing has faded over the centuries. This shift, which began in the late Middle Ages, accelerated in the industrial era, and reached its peak in modern times, reflects deep societal, technological, and cultural changes. From kings adorned in dazzling reds to the monochrome suits of today, the history of fashion in the West is one of muted hues and simplified palettes.

1. Medieval Europe: The Height of Color

In the Middle Ages (roughly 500-1500 AD), color was a key marker of social status. Wealthy individuals flaunted their vibrant clothing dyed in precious pigments like kermes (a brilliant red derived from insects), woad (a blue dye), and murex (a rare purple dye extracted from Mediterranean sea snails). Nobility dressed in reds, blues, greens, and purples, with lower classes in more muted browns and greys.

The Role of Sumptuary Laws

From the 12th century, sumptuary laws became increasingly common across Europe. These laws were designed to regulate extravagant spending on clothes and to maintain class distinctions. For instance, in 1363, King Edward III of England issued a law limiting the use of silk and gold thread to the aristocracy, thus reserving bright colors for the elite.

In Italy, Venetian sumptuary laws dictated that only the upper echelons could wear specific shades, such as crimson, while prohibiting commoners from wearing colors that could be mistaken for nobility. This further entrenched color as a symbol of power.

2. The Renaissance and Early Modern Periods: Dyes Become Expensive

The Renaissance (14th-17th centuries) saw a continuation of brightly colored fashions. However, by the 17th century, economic and technological shifts began to restrict color usage. The costs of producing vibrant dyes were exorbitant, as they were often sourced from distant regions. For example, cochineal, the source of a rich red, was harvested from insects in Central America and could cost the equivalent of a year's wages for a commoner in Europe.

Decline in Color due to Religious Influence

By the 1600s, the Protestant Reformation introduced a wave of Puritanical fashion, particularly in Northern Europe. Colors became associated with vanity and excess. The black garments of Puritan England and the Dutch Republic became symbols of piety and humility. For instance, John Calvin, a leader of the Reformation, argued that sober clothing was essential to a godly life. Puritan settlers brought this austere fashion to North America, solidifying dark, muted tones as signs of morality.

3. The Industrial Revolution: Rise of Mass-Produced Clothing

The 19th century witnessed the Industrial Revolution, which changed the landscape of fashion entirely. With the invention of synthetic dyes, such as William Henry Perkin’s accidental discovery of mauveine in 1856, mass production of colored clothing became feasible. However, this period also marked the beginning of a decline in the perceived value of color in fashion.

Despite the abundance of color, social norms favored more restrained palettes, especially among the growing middle class. As cities industrialized, dark-colored suits, particularly black and grey, became symbols of professionalism, respectability, and modernity. In 1849, the British social reformer Henry Mayhew observed that black clothing had become standard among London’s businessmen, reflecting the growing association between success and monochrome attire.

4. 20th Century: The Corporate Monochrome and Minimalism

By the mid-20th century, color had largely disappeared from men's formalwear. In 1926, Coco Chanel introduced the "Little Black Dress," which revolutionized women’s fashion by making black chic, elegant, and widely acceptable for women beyond mourning attire.

The post-World War II era saw the rise of corporate culture, further entrenching black, grey, and navy blue as standard for business attire. By the 1960s, the colorful counter-culture movements, symbolized by psychedelic fashion, briefly revived vibrant colors. However, by the 1980s and into the 1990s, the corporate world solidified a more muted aesthetic. Even within creative industries, black clothing became the uniform for professionals, from architects to designers.

In the 1990s, fashion designers like Calvin Klein and Giorgio Armani embraced minimalist designs, favoring neutral colors such as black, white, and grey, which signaled sophistication and modernity. The grunge movement also embraced darker tones, such as black and olive green, further normalizing muted colors in everyday wear.

5. Modern Times: Tech and Fast Fashion

In the 21st century, fast fashion brands have contributed to the dominance of neutral colors, particularly black, white, grey, and beige. These colors are easy to mass-produce, versatile, and rarely go out of style, reducing waste and production costs for companies. Moreover, the rise of tech culture, epitomized by figures like Steve Jobs and Mark Zuckerberg, reinforced the minimalist black wardrobe as the attire of innovation and focus.

By 2015, a study showed that black was the most popular color for clothing in major Western fashion markets, worn by 48% of people during any given week. Grey followed, with 35% of individuals preferring it for formal settings.

Conclusion: Color as a Reflection of Society

The loss of color in Western fashion is not merely a stylistic shift but a reflection of changing societal values. From the vibrant hues of medieval aristocracy to the dark suits of modern corporate life, the decline in the use of color in clothing mirrors the increasing emphasis on professionalism, restraint, and efficiency. As technology and global trade continue to evolve, it remains to be seen whether bright colors will make a comeback or whether neutral tones will continue to dominate the fashion landscape.